How I Built A Custom Cabinet For My Entryway (And How You Can Too)

I kept searching for the perfect piece of furniture for my entryway, but everything I found that I actually liked was way too expensive. And when that happens, there’s only one real solution…

I knew I needed to build it myself!

So let me show you exactly how I built mine so you can make one, too!

HOW I BUILT A CUSTOM CABINET FOR MY ENTRYWAY (AND HOW YOU CAN TOO)

Here’s what I used…

• 3/4″ thick plywood
• 2×2 select pine boards
• 2.5″ wood screws
• 2.5″ pocket hole screws
• Wood glue
• Inset hinges
• Hardware
• Marble top
• Construction adhesive
• Wood filler
• Caulk
• 1/5″ finish nails
• Aged oak gel stain
• Simply white gel stain
• Poly

Here are the tools you need…

• Jigsaw
• Miter saw
• Drill
• Sandpaper
• Finish nailer
• Multitool
• Pocket hole jig
• Concealed hinge jig

Here is my cut list for my 48″ long, 14″ deep, 36″ tall cabinet (not including the marble top)…

• 1 Sheet 3/4″ 4×8′ Plywood
  • Cabinet Bottom: 45″x11″
  • Cabinet Sides: 25.5″x11″ (2)
  • Cabinet Backs: 22.5″x21.75″ (2)
  • Cabinet Doors: 22.5″x21.75″ (2) – subtract 1/16″ on each side for an easier fit
    
• 5 2×2 Select Pine Boards
  • Legs: 36″ (6)
  • Side Supports: 11″ (3)
  • Cabinet Base Frame: 21.75″ (4)

STEP 1: DETERMINE YOUR CABINET SIZE, CUT YOUR WOOD, AND ASSEMBLE

Decide if you want to change the measurements for your cabinet and adapt the cut list accordingly. Then get to work cutting down your wood.

Tip: Home Depot will cut your plywood to size if you ask them to! That will save you time and the headache of getting perfect cuts if you aren’t using a tablesaw.

Once everything is cut down, sand the edges of your boards, then assemble your 2×2 frame. I layed out my 36″ legs and installed the support boards 12″ up from the bottom of the legs (so the actual cabinet legs are 12″). I started by using wood glue and pocket hole screws for this, but my screws weren’t holding well. So I switched to 2.5″ wood screws through the frame knowing I was going to need to wood fill a lot anyways.

I added one 11″ 2×2 across the top in the middle knowing I would need an extra support there for my countertop.

Next, I grabbed all my plywood except for the doors. I placed each board inside the frame where it belongs and wood glued and screwed it into place.

STEP 2: WORK ON YOUR CABINET DOORS & CURVES

Once your frame is assembled, grab the plywood you’ll use for your doors. Find the bottom corners and measure 5.5″ in from the bottom and up from the bottom. Make marks on each side, then use something round to trace your curve.

Use a jigsaw to cut out your curves and save them!

On the leftover plywood, trace and jigsaw out 8 additonal curved corners to go inside the furniture legs.

Sand everything down well, then use wood glue and a finish nailer with 1.5″ nails to install the curves onto the face frame.

Wood fill all the seams very well. Let it dry, then use medium grit sandpaper to sand everything down until you can’t feel any seams when you run your hand across.

Now let’s install the doors.

Use your Kreg concealed hinge jig to core out space for 2 hinges per door. These will be on the back of each door on the outside.

Install your hinges into the backs of the doors, then place your doors in the frame and mark exactly where the hinges will hit the face frame, top and bottom. Then mark 3/4″ in on your 2x2s.

If you’re using the same hinges as I am, this part will be a little tricky. The hinges need to sit on a face frame that is the same thickness as the door. Because of this I used my multitool to cut where I marked for my hinges so I could install them at the right depth for my doors to be flush with the outside of the frame.

It sounds tough, but it worked like a charm. Add a few playing cards or a couple sheets of paper under the door to act as a spacer, then install your hinges to the face frame.

STEP 3: THE FINISHING TOUCHES

Now that your cabinet is assembled, it’s time to stain! I mixed up 1/3 cup Simply White Minwax Gel Stain with 2/3 cup Aged Oak Minwax Gel Stain. Then I used a paint brush to brush the stain onto the cabinet, brushing continuously in the direction of the wood grain.

Once dry, I sealed it with Varathane Crystal Clear Matte Poly using a paint brush. I tend to do 2 coats of this, waiting at least an hour between coats.

I installed my handles then grabbed a marble shower bench from Floor & Decor to use for the top! I use these often and cut them down to size using a circular saw with a diamond blade. OR you could simply find a marble shower bench first and build your table accordinly so you don’t have to cut it down at all.

Alternatively, you could just use wood for the top to save some money here! The marble was more than half of the project cost, but it really does make an impact.

I ran construction adhesive around the top of the cabinet before placing my marble on top, then caulked where the marble met the cabinet.

THAT’S IT!

I decorated my cabinet with a few fun items I’ll link here in case they inspire you, and now we have a custom piece of furniture in our entryway that cost about an eighth of my inspiration piece. My total: $408 compared to a $3200 piece!

I hope this inspires you to build your own cabinet, and I can’t wait to see what you do to make it your own!

Happy building!