If you’re like me, you’ve probably seen those closet islands or fancy dressers with the glass tops. The showcases if you will. And you’ve thought to yourself, “Wow, I’d love one of those!”
Well, when I built my own closet island, I was determined to create one for myself without paying the high price point those pieces of furniture usually come with. And you know what I realized?
IT’S NOT THAT HARD. Like, really. You can do this! And the best part? It can really be done to any dresser! Let me show you how I made this one for my daughter’s new room…
HOW TO EASILY MAKE A DISPLAY CASE TOPPER FOR ANY DRESSER
Here’s what I used…
- 1x3s
- 1x2s
- 1.5″ finish nails
- Wood glue
- Construction adhesive
- Wood filler
- Caulk
- Sanding block
- Paint
- Acrylic sheet
- Decorative trim
- Hot glue
- Drawer slides
- 1″ screws
- Drill bits
- 1.25″ screws
- Hardware of your choice
- Acrylic organizers
Here are the tools you need…
STEP 1: BUILD YOUR ACRYLIC TABLE TOP
Start by cutting down 3 1×3 primed pine pieces. This will be your three-sided frame on top of your dresser. I decided to line mine up with the dresser sides — not with the top itself. So it’s set in just a bit from the edges.
I did line up my back 1×3 with the back of the dresser top, though! Make sure it’s nice and square! I decided to caulk, wood fill, and paint each part before moving on to the next. I used strong construction adhesive to adhere this to the dresser top, then angled nails in around the edges.
Once the paint was dry, I added mitered 1x2s to the top of my 1×3 frame. These edges are flush with the outside of the 1×3 frame. I used wood glue and nailed these in. Wood fill and sand those corners well!
See how the boards are in line with the frame and the overhang is inside? And see how the front is still open? This will be for your drawer later.
Now grab your screen trim and cut two pieces to the length of your front opening. Using construction adhesive, glue the trim under the 1×2 frame halfway so it creates a lip on the inside.
Use tape to hold it while it dries if needed! Then measure for the short sides and cut down two more pieces. Glue them in. Then caulk and paint before moving on!
Oh – and go ahead and install your drawer slides here before you get ahead of yourself like I did. I measured 3/4″ + 1/16″ back from the front of the 1×3 boards, drew a line, and used that to place my slides.
Go ahead and screw them into place against the 1×3 sides, making sure the front of the slide is where you made your mark and the bottom side of the slide is sitting on the dresser top. Repeat on the other side. Don’t disconnect your slides! We’ll get to the install in a bit.
Now, grab your acrylic sheet. Using a straight edge and a plastic scoring tool, score and snap your acrylic to size. This should be cut to fit inside your 1×2 top frame, right on the screen trim ledge you just created!
Set it into place, then cut down some decorative trim to hide the raw edges and give it a finished look. Again – caulk, wood fill, and paint! Then your acrylic top is complete!
STEP 2: BUILD YOUR ACRYLIC DRAWER
Measure the opening between your 1×3 sides (in the front). Then subtract one inch. This is your drawer width. Measure the depth of your opening under the acrylic top to the front of your drawer slide. Then subtract one inch. This is your drawer depth. Your height will be the height of your 1×2 boards, which are 1.5″.
It helps to sketch out your drawer box to help you get your cut list. Typically, you should cut 2 1x2s to your drawer depth measurement, 2 1x2s to your drawer width measurement minus 1.5″ (to account for your sides), and 1 1×2 cut to your drawer depth measurement minus 1.5″ for the center support.
Use nails and wood glue to assemble, making sure your front and back boards are the ones that connect to the sides. That way, your raw wood edges are on the front and back of the drawer and will not be visible.
Nail and glue your center support in. Wood fill, caulk, and paint your frame, and let it dry completely.
In the meantime, cut down your drawer front. I used a 1×3 for this. This should match the length of your opening (between the 1×3 sides under the acrylic top) minus 1/8″ so it fits in comfortably.
Sand it down, add trim around the edges if you want, caulk, and paint!
Now that your drawer box is dry, flip it over and measure the full length and width. It should match your initial drawer width and depth measurements. This is the size you need to cut your acrylic. Again, just score and snap it! Always use a straight edge to help with both!
Set it on the bottom of the drawer box, and predrill holes every 8″ or so around the edges. Then, use 3/4″ or 1″ screws to secure. Go SLOW here, or you risk breaking your acrylic.
STEP 3: INSTALL YOUR DRAWER
Set something that’s about 1/4″ thick on the dresser top to act as a spacer. I used some books! Set your drawer on your spacer and ease it into the opening.
Pull the slides out so they’re about 1/16″ from the front of the drawer and screw them into place, keeping your spacers in place.
Once you have a couple of screws in on each side, remove your spacers. Pull your drawer all the way out and add a couple more screws towards the back. Your drawer should now slide in and out with ease!
Push your drawer in all the way, then set your drawer front in to see exactly where it needs to be installed. I like to use a quick-setting adhesive here to secure my drawer front to the drawer exactly where it needs to be, so there is approximately 1/16″ of clearance on all sides.
Then use 1.25″ screws to secure the drawer front in from the back. I removed my whole drawer to do this part, but you don’t have to! Then mark and drill for your hardware and install your knobs or pulls!
THAT’S IT!
Now that your acrylic top and drawer are finished and installed, add in some acrylic or velvet organizers if you’d like and fill it up!
I can’t wait to see how your project turns out and what you end up using it for! My daughter plans to use hers for jewelry and to showcase some of her collections.
Happy building!
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